Travel Diary: Mexico – Regatta for friends

Travel Diary: Mexico

It is time to tell you all about our trip through colorful Mexico. When putting together the itinerary, we suggested that the team try to experience as much as possible right from the start—not only sailing and freediving as the mandatory core of the program, but also supplementing the trip with walks through Mexico’s capital, Mexico City. I always say that if you have a chance to learn more about a country and its character, you should make the absolute most of it! I’ll share my impressions and emotions from the journey and cover a few moments that could slightly spoil your mood and vacation in Mexico. Guided by the principle “forewarned is forearmed!” 😉

Part 1. Let’s Start with Mexico City

First of all, the average traveler doesn’t know all that much about Mexico City. Having been there, I think this is completely unjustified and undeserved. People need to talk about it and share stories—the city truly deserves it. Second, it is one of the largest cities on the planet: densely populated, with unique architecture and its own unmistakable charisma!

We couldn’t pass up Garibaldi Square. Every day, street musicians (mariachis) gather there to catch the attention of passersby and tourists, hoping for tips. Talented, vibrant, and endlessly original groups perform a huge range of musical styles for you! It is a kind of musical climax. At any given moment, there can be up to 100 (!) groups on the square, ranging from young performers to seasoned veterans. There are plenty of cafes all around. Here, every guidebook recommends trying Pulque, a local alcoholic drink made from agave sap, as well as quesadillas, tacos, tortillas, tostadas, and enchiladas. Needless to say, on our first day we naturally tried tequila—and couldn’t resist trying various types of beer either 🙂 “Various” here is no exaggeration!

The next morning, we took a taxi and headed to the Pyramid of the Sun, about 40 kilometers outside the city. Massive and significantly larger than the Egyptian pyramids, it is considered one of the tallest in the world. Adding to the mystery of our visit, the Pyramid sits on the Avenue of the Dead between the Pyramid of the Moon and the Citadel. From my personal experience: climbing the Pyramid isn’t too difficult; we reached the top fairly quickly and easily. Looking down gives you the impression of a gentle slope. We went up to the Altar of Sacrifice and took photos—you get stunning shots from up there! To anyone planning to visit these places, I strongly recommend wide-brimmed hats—those classic Mexican ones. You can’t do without them here; after all, it’s not called the Pyramid of the Sun for nothing!

We bought our hats along the way after stopping by a souvenir shop—tequila, magnets, hats, and other keepsakes. My advice is not to rush and to look around before heading into the very first shop on your path. There might be markets nearby where you can save a good amount of money. The locals helped us find a guide who showed us how tequila is made and offered us a taste of Pulque, which turned out to be sweetish and unique in flavor.

In the city, we used review apps to find spots for dinner. We tried some main delicacies of Mexican cuisine: giant ant eggs (escamoles) and meztocuil larvae—the worms that live inside agaves. Have you ever seen tequila with a worm floating in it? Those are the ones! I have to say, fried up, they are actually delicious. My apologies to anyone afraid of bugs and spiders! After one of our dinners, a few locals ended up joining our group! Making acquaintances here is quite easy—locals are friendly, emotional, and glad to chat.

We met up with the second part of our team, who decided to fly in later. Finally, we were all together!

Part 2. Setting Sail!

We flew to La Paz. I remember that feeling of anticipation for the sailing trip—I catch those emotions every time and savor them. Once again, a week on sailing yachts awaited us, this time along the coast of the peninsula and the state of Baja California Sur, exploring the most beautiful bays and small towns.

Upon arrival, we reached the marina. We took over the boats—brand new, clean, and beautiful. We hosted a welcome cocktail party to get to know each other! After sunrise, around 7 AM, we set off for our first stop: a 1.5-hour passage to El Hongo, a local landmark that tourists flock to see. The quiet bay is famous for its great swimming spots and, of course, a rock formation shaped like a large mushroom. It’s something you need to see at least once. In the shimmering blue water, there are countless colorful fish and corals that delighted our diving enthusiasts. For the night, we moved to a quiet, sheltered bay to hide from the expected 10–15 knot northern wind.

In our memories and phone photos, this day will stay framed in turquoise water, high rocky cliffs, and snow-white beaches.

Swimming with Sea Lions

I can’t skip talking about this separately, especially since I’m sure many people researching Mexico have seen reviews of the rocky islets of Los Islotes. Sea lions live there in abundance, and you can swim with them in their natural habitat! Anyone who loves heartwarming scenes—this is the place for you!

I should mention that local rangers have restricted boats and yachts from approaching the shore (and this isn’t mentioned everywhere in guidebooks). We couldn’t swim or dive with the sea lions on our own, but it became possible once we agreed to take an official tour.

It turned out that this isn’t just a peninsula, but an entire national park, and the people qualified to guide you around the island—and even keep you safe from the animals—undergo special training first. In other words, it’s a legalized business here. You cannot approach the shore on your boat independently, but you can with an authorized guide.

There really are tons of sea lions here! But I’ll add my own small perspective and lingering impression: it’s super unusual and cool, but avoiding the smell of their presence here… is simply impossible.

Sea Lions and Salt Factory Channels

We set sail for San Evaristo, our next stop on the route. It’s a good bay with excellent shelter from the wind.

Locals told us that besides the hyped-up national park with the sea lions, there are other spots just as good where you can swim with marine life freely and without restrictions outside the park boundary. Naturally, we took advantage of this new information. Those who didn’t join us visited the sea lions on the way back instead.

I’ll say that enjoying the interaction with marine life went much better here: we really connected with the experience and soaked in new sensations. It’s mesmerizing. It’s pure delight and an indescribable feeling when your breath catches from genuine, child-like joy. Nothing can overpower the sharp smell, of course, but when a baby sea lion zooms toward you at full speed, accelerates, and darts past just a meter away while changing course, it’s truly impressive! I wish everyone could experience these moments in life 🙂

From our anchorage island, we headed west toward the mainland to Isla San Francisquito, a popular spot in a crescent-shaped bay lined with pristine white beaches, red cliffs, and crystal-clear water.

We had agreed to contact our families at least once every few days, so along the way, we looked for places with cellular reception just to send a text confirming our crew was doing great! We found a beachfront restaurant, had a fantastic time, and took incredible sunset photos! We also went night diving, which is a whole separate program and feeling in itself!

Speaking of our routine: every day at 7 AM we had a warmup, and by 10 AM we wrapped it up along with diving, enjoyed breakfast, and moved on. This schedule suited everyone on the team and allowed us to accomplish a lot.

We couldn’t miss visiting another local, informal landmark—an abandoned salt production factory. Friends, it is incredibly beautiful! White flooded, drained channels contrasting against the beige ground—a breathtakingly gorgeous sight.

After spending the night at anchor, we headed south toward home, reached out to our families again after catching cell service, and went diving near a small, snow-white islet in the Roca Partida chain. Very beautiful. But! So many midges 🙂 Nowhere to run, nowhere to hide.

Next was a passage to Puerto Balandra, featuring eight untouched white sand beaches and an inner lagoon. We’ll remember that coming night because a shoal of small fish gathered near our mooring, and pelicans were diving right next to us, plunging recklessly into the water in search of food. True unity with nature 🙂

By the evening of the next day, we handed out logbooks, discussed the trip, summarized our results, and took the exam (everyone scored over 100 points). We sang and danced until we dropped, not wanting to say goodbye. But as per our tradition, we don’t say goodbye—we say, “Until next time!”

Our Observations

  • In early March, Mexico experiences northern winds, which made sailing northward difficult, so we covered most of that distance under engine power. On the way back, however, the wind became our ally: we turned off the engines, raised the sails, and moved toward our home marina at 8 knots. Keep this in mind when planning your time, crew experience, and resources.
  • The water isn’t warm everywhere; there were spots where even kids in thick wetsuits felt chilly.

That’s still not all. If you’re heading to Mexico, read about our experience interacting with locals who sometimes try to take advantage of tourists. We’ve put together a few rules based on our experience.

Part 3. 8 Life Hacks for Tourists in Mexico

  1. Taxi: Uber works great in the country. By using the app where you pay by card, you won’t encounter fraud. Local taxi drivers who offer “great deals” (to drive you, wait, and bring you back cheaper) will try to trick you over small things. This dishonesty is so blatant that at some point you feel lost because such brazen behavior is hard to wrap your head around. If they ask you to cancel your Uber ride and offer a lower price—don’t fall for it, you’ll end up overpaying.
  2. Airport Taxis: Here lies a problem: Mexico has affiliated taxis assigned to airports charging three times the price of a regular city taxi. City taxis working through well-known apps simply aren’t allowed onto airport grounds. To save money, walk past the airport perimeter and request a ride via location services.
  3. Private Transport Again (for sights): We overpaid double for a toll road because we didn’t know right away that toll fees were charged directly to the taxi’s account. As in tourist areas everywhere, every “guide” will try to bring you to a specific shop or restaurant where they get a commission on your purchase. There’s no guarantee that around the corner there isn’t a great, cheap market with the exact same goods at half the price. Look around—that’s my advice.
  4. Communicate via Translation Apps: Tools like Google Translate have an excellent speech recognition feature that translates into the target language. It helps tremendously when talking to locals when it’s total “I don’t understand you” territory 🙂
  5. SIM Cards: Locals will gladly offer to buy a SIM card for you with a “favorable” rate. You will overpay… a lot. Buy it yourself and compare the rates. The benefit of cooperating with locals here (drivers, guides, and tourist workers) is highly questionable.
  6. Currency Exchanges: Currency exchange booths in Mexico can also be unusual. Up to 20 windows might stand in a row with different rates. Before exchanging money, figure out where the best rate is and whether there’s an extra fee (!). A few minutes of analysis will help you select the best terms.
  7. Don’t Forget Mexican Hats: Here, it’s not just a symbol of the country, but an essential survival tool under the hot sun.
  8. Keep Your Belongings Safe: In city centers and popular squares (frequented by pickpockets), don’t carry valuables with you, and keep an eye on your backpacks and money. This isn’t just about Mexico—it’s good advice for any country!

Have a great trip and positive vibes!