This year we tried a new format of travel – a gastro tour. And of course, our first destination was generous Italy with its huge gastronomic potential, warm weather, small cozy towns along the coast and soulful people.
Our route began in the city of Salerno, the administrative center of the province of the same name and the second largest city (after Naples) in the entire Campagna region. By itself, this city deserves special attention as a gourmet and an ordinary traveler. But about it a little later, because we were able to walk around it a lot only at the end of our journey.
According to the tradition of the Friendly Regatta, we spend the first evening and night in the home marina to adapt to life on the boat and get used to easy pitching. This time we were sheltered by Marina D’Arechi, a small marina in a residential area of the city. This, perhaps, was its only drawback - it was possible to get to restaurants, promenades and shops only by taxi. In the marina itself there is only a small bar with drinks and snacks. But it is quite good showers, no problems with water and electricity.
Boats took quite a long time (this is Italy, no one is in a hurry.) Accommodating, passing a brief safety briefing and buying groceries at a local supermarket, we went on our first gastronomic trip - an Italian restaurant. Here we met again the leisurely Italian service, but in the end the food was delicious. Welcome dinner and acquaintance of participants smoothly turned into jokes, anecdotes, establishment of new business relations and photo shoot. Already from the first hours there was a feeling of meeting good friends or old classmates: this is the effect of the sea, slightly multiplied by prosecco bubbles.
On the second day we were waiting for the first crossing – one of the most beautiful for the whole trip. Transition along the Amalfi Coast to the city of Amalfi. More precisely, as a city, not a city, but a small village with fabulous houses crawling on steep mountain slopes. The road was pleasant – the sunny warm weather made it possible to quickly dress up in bathing suits and get the vitamin D desired by city residents! For the first time in the history of our voyages, we had to entrust the mooring of the boat to outsiders: the Amalfitan marina is special, very narrow, not deep and at the same time with busy traffic. Therefore, on the boat, a colorful Italian skipper approaches you and moors your boats and catamarans as famously as a bicycle.
Upon arrival, the first thing we did was go to the Smeralda Grotto (aka Emerald Grotto), one of the main attractions of the southern coast of Italy, located between Amalfi and Positano. Its bottom is flooded by the sea, thanks to which the light penetrating into the grotto gives the water and the entire cave a beautiful emerald color - at least so was stated in his description. The grotto is recommended for viewing from 12 to 15 hours. You can get there for 6 euros by bus or 10 euros per person by boat. We chose a boat and came to the grotto almost under closure. At the entrance we had to fork out 5 euros for the entrance. And prepare to part with a couple of euros as a tip to the local "gandolier", who sang songs and joked, trying in every possible way to stretch our stay in the grotto for at least 10 minutes. Because, frankly, there’s not much to watch. Yes, really daylight from under the water penetrates into the cave, it is beautiful, even fascinating. But, perhaps, the money that it requires to spend is not worth it. Take a walk around town. There's a lot to see there.
On our return to Amalfi, we were greeted by the aroma of Mediterranean cuisine and a wonderful lunch at the Lo Smeraldino restaurant overlooking the marina. The variety of dishes did not leave indifferent even the most exquisite gourmets. Fresh fish and seafood for every taste, local wines and a light sea breeze. Afternoon sleep was absolutely necessary.
In the evening we went for a short walk around the city. It turned out that ice cream with a drop of Limoncello (or Meloncello - the same liqueur, only based on melon) - an excellent dessert for adults, especially if you sit in friendly company on the steps of the great staircase Duomo di Amalfi.
The town is very nice. Although there are a lot of tourists during the day, in the evening it is calmer and more comfortable for walking. The narrow streets of the old city, old wooden doors and shutters, behind which the life of the local population flows steadily, the smell of a cooked dinner, loud Italian conversations – a feeling that time stopped here several centuries ago. A small family pizzeria with very colorful hosts complemented the picture of the evening.
The third day started early, with a long journey to Capri. The weather spoiled us again, we even managed to swim. Swimming next to a boat in the open sea is a separate high! And for the especially brave - you can grab the moorings and swim behind the boat. True, salt water is in a hurry to wash your face and drag your swimsuits.
Capri turned out to be a very picturesque island. However, he met us at first unfriendly – the requirement to pay for the night of the catamaran 1500 euros, which was not included in our tourist plans. Therefore, the presence of a person on the boat, fluent in Italian, helped us more than once. 5 minutes of untranslatable play of words, gestures and the feeling that you will have to take the marina by siege - and voila (or as the Italians say allora), bargained for 150. This is Italian magic. Take note.
We came to Capri just in time for dinner. Restaurant Lo Zodiaco with a large street veranda and sea views checked by us personally and recommended to visit. The evening walk turned into songs and dances, which slightly excited local residents and vacationers. Their acoustics are good there.
The island itself is small, one of its main attractions is the Phoenician Staircase, which leads from the city of Capri (where, incidentally, Maxim Gorky lived) to the city of Anacapri (and really, why complicate it, especially since there are only 2 cities on the island). It is said to be one of the oldest surviving roads in the world, with about 900 steps. The legend says that the creators of the stairs were the Phoenicians who carved it in the rock in the VII-VI centuries BC. Unfortunately, we did not have the chance to count their exact number - the gastro tour left its imprint on our fitness program, so we limited ourselves to examining it from the outside.
The town of Capri begins its day very early – cafes put tables on the streets for early visitors, fishermen hustling near boats – have already come with a catch. So for lovers of early rise and morning coffee there are a couple of great places. Well, we bought food again, loaded up on boats and went on the way - Ischia was waiting for us!
Ischia began with an extensive excursion program - visits to the thermals and wineries. The season was not yet hot, so the visitors in the baths were like seals on the rookery, that is, so much that we risked waiting to miss a visit to the winery. Therefore, it was decided to sacrifice thermal water in favor of grape water. A minibus took us to the winery. In fact, it turned out to be a tourist resort with a hotel, a restaurant, thermal water pools and views of Sant'Angelo. The owner of all these estates is an elderly Italian, very businesslike and can be seen working. From the tour we learned about the wine quite a bit, but admired the views, ate to the dump of different snacks and for 10 euros per person agreed to visit the thermal pool on the territory of the hotel. So they killed all the birds at once and were very happy. If you are in Ischia, visit Punta Chiarito Resort.
In the evening, in search of dinner, we came (by chance) to the Michelin restaurant l Mosaico. He hid in the grounds of the Terme Manzi Hotel & Spa away from the waterfront. Here, for 35 euros per person, we were offered a menu of 2 courses to choose from, not including drinks. The pompous interior complemented the slowness of the waiters. In general, we were again satisfied with the food and table conversations, but we could have dinner in a more democratic place on the waterfront. What a gastro tour, though.
The only thing I regretted that night was not bringing my guitar. Travelers on the note - safely take a guitar with you, otherwise you will have to sing a cappella.
The next point of our route was Sorrento. We got there in the evening. There are no places in the marina where they planned to spend the night. So we had to walk an extra 5 miles to the town of Castellammare di Stabia and moor in the dark. Advice for a novice yachtsman - if you booked a marina, reduce the time to admire the seascapes and photo shoots with cranes, and come there in advance, right so well in advance, so as not to be left without a place. Again, even if you have a reservation!
We spent 2 nights in this marina. During this time, we managed to climb Vesuvius and visit the buffalo farm. To Vesuvius from the local railway station we were taken by taxi, waited for our ascent and return and returned back to the city for 120 euros. That 8 people were very comfortable. Mount Vesuvius is worth climbing for the sake of clouds. The crater itself, frankly, did not cause much interest. But the incoming and swirling clouds, which in 3 minutes completely hide Naples and just as quickly dissipate - this is cool.
In the evening we were waiting for an excursion to the buffalo farm and homemade tasting of Mozzarella di Buffalo. The buffalo farm again proved to be a rather impressive household of one hardworking family. And although the claimed buffalo and buffalo milk was not found there, but there were wonderful cows and cheerful Italian women who made mozzarella with us. This was followed by a merry preparation of pizza in indecent aprons and tasting local cuisine in some terrible amount for the stomach. All calorie counting apps have long been abandoned by even the most slim and athletic girls. Everything was so delicious and fun that the evening crept up unnoticed and had to leave.
On the seventh day we had to make a long transition to the home marina – almost 40 nautical miles. It was raining, but we held on. Drama and watch at the helm saved the motion sick. Such a wonderful life hack: rocks – get at the helm. Whether the burden of responsibility, or looking at the horizon really helps. The transition took almost all day. Quite tired, but satisfied and with a lot of impressions from the trip, we returned to Salerno. It was enough to get out for an evening walk in the city. There is a train station near Marina D’Arechi. By local train in 15 minutes you can reach the city center.
The next morning we surrendered the boats. This process took significantly less time than acceptance. There was still a long way to go before the train. So we finally had the opportunity to see Salerno himself. Narrow cobbled streets with linen hung between the balconies, many cafes and shops. Our way was to Monte Bonadi in the castle of Castello di Areca. You can get there by taxi, your own car (there is free parking) or on foot (which is not very convenient, since the road rises steeply). We chose a taxi.
The castle was built in the 8th century, but has survived to this day and was recently restored. Today it houses a historical museum with a collection of medieval weapons, ancient ceramics, coins. The exposition is small, so if you are not a big lover of antiquity, we recommend you to just walk through the ruins and admire the chic view of Salerno and the entire Salerno Bay - a great place for selfies and group photos. The road goes down through the surrounding park. So it's better to walk down. 25-30 minutes and you are back in town.
After such a long walk, it was necessary to eat thoroughly. We managed to find a nice restaurant with steaks.
With that, our tour came to an end. It's time to head out to the station, hug and say goodbye until new meetings.
In general, to be honest, local yachtsmen avoid tourist Ischia and Capri, preferring the southern part of the Amalfi coast, where perhaps we will go again.
Lookphotographfrom our gastro journey!
